Saturday 10 September 2016

Converting an Airfix Autocoach to an A10 Autocoach...The Body..NO, Not Elle's!

I said in the last update that I was having a go at the A10 Auto trailer the David Jenkinson way.
Well the sides have all been cut out. But while I was working laboriously on those I was thinking there had to be an easier way, hence the following:

Ashburton had 2 x A10 trailers in the late 30's for use on the line. While one was the norm the second was stored in the train shed at Ashburton when not being used.
This is how I have attempted to build an A10 auto trailer from 2 commercially available A31's.
To start with you will need 2 auto trailers, due to the fact that there is an extra window in the A10.
You will need a copy of the book: Great Western Auto Trailers Part One:Pregrouping Vehicles ..John Lewis ISBN 0 906867 99 1

Available through Titfield Thunderbolt and other good book suppliers.
The plan in the book needs to be enlarged 100% so it is OO

1) Mark a line 25mm from the baggage end of the auto trailer. (this measurement is taken from the side end NOT the vehicle end)
Use a square and mark from top to bottom.

2) Cut through with a piercing saw/jewelers saw, from top to bottom of side and into the edge of the floor.
Once through the side, cut towards the back end of the coach following the side until just behind the end wall of the compartment.
Cut across to the other side of the coach, to meet the cut of the other side.

3)Cut through the front end of the coach where the front corner and the hand rails are between drivers door and front of coach.
This needs to be cut here as there is a section is needed here before the front door is located in place.
* Note: the original front door will NOT be used in this position, but rather in the coach section and vice versa.

4) Mark your toplight/window sections 1-9 starting from the drivers end.

5) Mark your plan window sections, from the same end again 1-10. NO this is not a mistake, as there are 10 windows on the side of an A10.

6) Using your plan as a guide you now cut up the window sections as follows. Remember you have to allow some sections of panel with your window to fill in the spaces between the windows.

Window 9 on the sides becomes window 10.
Window 8 + door be comes window 1 and drivers door plus the pillar.
Window 1 and drivers door becomes window 7 and passenger door.
Window 2 and 1/2 of filler panel becomes window 6 and spacer to passenger door.
Window 3 becomes window 8.
Window 4 becomes window 9.
Window 5 becomes window 3.
Window 6 becomes window 2.
This leaves window 7. What I did with this window is cut 6" out of the centre through the toplight divider and body. This will leave you with a 3' wide window. Join the 2 sections together again and make a new centre section for the toplight.
You will need to do the same with a twin window section off of the spare body. Again you will need to make a new centre section for the toplight and also for the main window.

These sections now all need to be joined together.
If you have opted to just cut out windows and add sections between you will need styrenne strip (slaters/evergreen/plastruct) for the infills.
In the way I did it, I had to sand up the edges and only needed styrenne in front of the drivers door.

I should have taken more pics showing all the pieces laid out, but alas I didn't so have only taken some of them joined and glued together. These are in the process of being sanded so as to give nice smooth sides and no joins should be showing.
Either way the first coat of paint (undercoat) will show any areas that need more cleaning up or filling.

One other thing, the dividers for the 3' windows will not get done until after all the sanding is finished , BUT before priming.




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